The E11 planinarska staza je 2.560 km planinarenje trag u Europa kroz Nizozemska, Njemačka i Poljska. To je jedan od jedanaest pješačkih staza koordinira Europska organizacija Ramblers (DOBA), također poznat kao (njemački) Europäische Wandervereinigung (EWV) i (francuska) Féderation Européenne de la Randonnée Pédestre (FERP).
Svakodnevno upravljanje stazom, od markiranja do preusmjeravanja, obavlja nizozemska nacionalna organizacija skakača Wandelnet, kvango i krovna organizacija nizozemskih rambluških klubova, nekih njemačkih regionalnih organizacija skakača i poljske nacionalne planinarske organizacije PTTK. U Nizozemskoj i zapadnoj Njemačkoj E11 slijedi regionalne pješačke staze (uglavnom neprikladne za druga prijevozna sredstva); istočno od Harz planine, E11 je dizajniran nakon pada željezne zavjese, a može se prekriti i biciklom; a u Poljskoj je E11 spoj manjih i većih dijelova lokalnih i regionalnih staza kojima se moglo ići pješice ili sedlom.
Osim planina Harz, E11 prolazi samo ravnim ili valjanim zemljištem. Mnogi su dijelovi prekriveni šumom ili barem komercijalnim drvetom, ali postoji otvoreno agrarno i neiskorišteno zemljište. Zapadna Njemačka prelazi se nizom niskih brežuljaka koji su nastali tijekom zadnjeg ledenog doba, prije oko 12 000 godina. Nakon planina Harz, gotovo se ne primjećuje povišenje. E11 često neko vrijeme slijedi plovne putove, prelazeći ih trajektom ili mostom, a ponekad jezera moraju biti okružena, na primjer u Masurija u Poljskoj. Među rijekama koje se slijede i prelaze su IJssel u Nizozemskoj, Elbe i Havel u Njemačkoj, Oder ili Odra na granici Njemačke i Poljske, a Visla (Wisła) u Poljskoj.
Shvati
E11 nastao je 1980. godine iz niza kratkih njemačkih putova kao međunarodna staza između gradova pobratima Haarlem u Nizozemskoj i Osnabrück u Njemačkoj i odmah je proširen na planine Harz. Nakon pada željezne zavjese, E11 je postao jedno od mnogih sredstava za poticanje integracije zapadne i nekadašnje istočne, danas srednje Europe. Zbog toga je produžen 1990-ih do Berlina, a zatim i Poljske. Kao zagušenja oko Amsterdam onemogućilo je zadržavanje ugodne rute od Haarlem, početak je premješten na Scheveningen. Na regionalnoj međunarodnoj razini Euregio je počeo iskorištavati područje između Deventer u Nizozemskoj i Osnabrück u Njemačkoj na komercijalan način, nadajući se da će podupirati napore na približavanju stanovništva s obje strane međunarodne granice.
Na stazi su uočljive etničke i povijesne razlike. Otvorenost krajolika Zapadna Nizozemska (Holandija), bogata poljoprivreda na Istoku, znamenitosti velikih pruskih imanja i njihova nepregledna polja, održavana ili oživljena tijekom DDR-a, i ožiljci koje su stoljećima stvorili njemačko-poljski sukobi i njemačko i sovjetsko suzbijanje - svi su oni vidljiv duž E11. To potkrepljuje činjenica da se poljski dio E11 uglavnom nalazi na teritorijima koji su bili njemački do 1918. ili čak 1945. godine. Da biste više uživali u svom maršu duž E11, možete pročitati enciklopedijski članak o europskom dalekom putu E11 u Wikipediji, gdje također ćete pronaći stotine veza do općina duž E11.
Pripremiti
E11 ne zahtijeva pripremu izvan norme za pješačenje na velike daljine (vidi Planinarenje i odjeljak "Priprema" u Apalačka staza). Provjerite jeste li u dobroj fizičkoj kondiciji i imate dobru opremu (nemojte ići na jeftine čizme za hodanje ili jeftin ruksak) i dobar set karata. Također pripazite da imate dovoljno hrane i vode da se održavate.
U dijelovima Poljske udaljenost između mjesta na kojima se može spavati u krevetu (a ne u šatoru) može biti i do 35 km. Ako vam se ne da marširati na takve udaljenosti (ili čak i više ako se izgubite), nosite šator i vreću za spavanje. Pripremite se na kišu (i snijeg zimi) i nosite odjeću koja se brzo suši ako je planirate prati tijekom putovanja.
Uz pomoć web stranice njemačke željezničke tvrtke DB lako je podijeliti E11 na dijelove koji su izvedivi u jednom odmoru od dva ili tri tjedna. Osim Haag, Bad Bentheim, Osnabrück, Hannover, Halle (Saale), Berlin, Frankfurt (Oder), Poznań, Trčati i Olsztyn su gradovi iz kojih se lako može pobjeći vlakom. Hannover, Berlin i Poznań također nude zračne usluge.
Nakon što odredite dionice E11 kojima ćete hodati, pripazite da nabavite sve dolje preporučene karte za to odsjek. To će potrajati nekoliko tjedana, ako ne i mjeseci, jer ne reagiraju sve trgovine i izdavači brzo.
U Nizozemskoj i zapadnoj Njemačkoj obično vas razumiju ako komunicirate na engleskom, ali ponesite osnovne rječnike na njemačkom i poljskom ako idete dalje na istok. Pomaže ako naučite izgovarati imena i druge riječi na nizozemski, njemački, poljski način, jer je otvoreni anglofonski naglasak ozbiljan hendikep kada želite pronaći svoj put ili ste gladni.
Ostati siguran
Najveća opasnost uz E11 jedva je vidljiva: krpelj. Opasnost nije toliko u samoj ovoj malenoj životinji, iako njezin ugriz povremeno može izazvati infekciju. Opasnost je u parazitima koje mogu nositi. Duž cijele staze poznato je da su krpelji zaraženi (ponekad i do visokog postotka) Lymeovom bolešću. Istočno od planina Harz mogu nositi i krpeljni meningoencefalitis. Pažljivo pročitajte odgovarajuće članke na Wikipediji ili negdje drugdje i cijepite se protiv meningo-encefalitisa koji se prenosi krpeljima prije nego što krenete u područje Harza ili istočnije. Ne postoji profilaksa protiv Lajmske bolesti, ali može se izliječiti antibioticima ako se rano uhvati.
Osim povremenog susreta s gujarom, veprom, čoporom vukova ili čak risa ili ugrizom bilo kojeg sisavca zaraženog bjesnoćom, put je inače savršeno siguran i zimi ga se može i slijediti, pod uvjetom da je čovjek adekvatno odjeven i nosi dovoljno hrane i (toplih) pića. Poljska zima je duga i hladna! Ako ne nosite šator, pobrinite se da možete prijeći udaljenost od 35 km jer je smještaj (i autobusna stajališta!) Ponekad rijetka u Poljskoj.
Uđi
Početak E11 u Scheveningen do njega je lako doći sa svih strana svijeta: doletite u Schiphol, aerodrom u Amsterdam, vozite jednim od vrlo čestih vlakova do "Den Haag CS", jedne od željezničkih stanica u Haag, a tramvaj 9 dovest će vas do Kurhausa na trgu "Gevers Deynootplein". Također je moguće međunarodnim vlakom iz Belgije ili Francuske za Rotterdam i tamo presjednite vlakove za Den Haag CS. Međunarodni vlakovi iz Njemačke nude vezu do Den Haag CS presjedanjem vlakova u Utrecht ili Amersfoort. Dolazeći iz Engleske, obično bi se stiglo brzim trajektom iz Harwich prema Hook of Holland a zatim slijedite bijelo-crvenu označenu Europsku obalnu stazu E9 u Scheveningen.
Rambleri koji počinju iz Velike Britanije i Irske, a koji žele doći do početka E11 pješice, trebaju osigurati da do Harwicha stignu duž Essex Way, odakle bi trebali doći trajektom do Hook of Holland a zatim slijedite E9 kao što je gore spomenuto. Do Scheveningena je također moguće doći istim E9 s juga Engleske, sjeverozapadne Francuske i belgijske obale. Druga je mogućnost pješice doći do Hook Hollanda E2 (također poznat kao GR 5) iz Lijepo, Istok Francuske i gotovo cijela Belgija.
Inače, Gevers Deynootplein ispred Kurhausa nije mjesto na kojem parkirate automobil dok lutate 2500 km E11. Čak i ako uspijete pronaći besplatno parkirno mjesto, morat ćete platiti nekoliko eura na sat.
Hodati
Izuzev članka koji sada čitate, precizno usmjeravanje E11 uopće nije dokumentirano na engleskom jeziku. Ako dovoljno dobro govorite nizozemski i njemački, bez problema ćete doći do planina Harz, ali u istočnoj Njemačkoj i Poljskoj teško je pronaći čak i detaljne izvore na lokalnim jezicima (njemački i poljski). Za ovaj smo članak pribavili i preveli njemačku knjigu koja je izašla iz tiska, i flajere i druge dokumente iz ureda nesretnih organizacija u Kasselu, Pragu, Poznanju, Torunu i Olsztynu, kao i lokalno prodane topografske karte. Neki su odjeljci označeni na lokalni značaj; drugi nisu.
E11 u Nizozemskoj (355 km)
U Nizozemskoj je E11 identičan modelu E11 Marskramerpad (Trgovački put), koja povezuje Scheveningen preko 368 kilometara do njemačke općine Bad Bentheim. Posljednjih 13 km nalazi se na njemačkom teritoriju, što 355 km ostavlja za nizozemski teritorij. Kao i većinom nizozemskih staza za velike udaljenosti, Marskramerpadom upravlja Wandelnet gdje Wandelnet: "Marskramerpad", ur. Wandelnet, Amersfoort, 2009., ISBN 9789071068782, vodič na nizozemskom jeziku s vrlo korisnim detaljnim kartama može se kupiti. Ova se knjižica mora koristiti obrnutim redoslijedom, tj. Karta koja prikazuje Scheveningen posljednja je karta u vodiču. To može objasniti zašto naslovni tekst vodiča pogrešno navodi da nizozemski dio E11 započinje u njemačkom gradu Bad Bentheimu.
Nizozemske planinarske staze, uključujući Marskramerpad, obično su savršeno označene. Međutim, staze se često mijenjaju, ponekad i na glavni način, a te se promjene mijenjaju opisani su samo na nizozemskom. U prosincu 2012. god. Spomenuto je 55 promjena.
Nisu sve promjene male. Jedan od njih (između Achtervelda i Terschuura) iznosi dodatnih 8 km (5 milja), povrh 360 km spomenutih na naslovnici vodiča. Zbog toga su 4 karte u knjižici ("kaart 42", 42A, 43 i 44) u potpunosti izmijenjene. Stoga je poželjno naručiti vodič i također provjeriti oznake Marskramerpada na terenu zbog nedavnih promjena. Samo u glavnom naslovu stranice nalaze se četiri dna, od kojih drugi slijeva daje vrlo detaljnu mapu najnovijeg usmjeravanja staze (koristite funkciju zumiranja). Na drugom mjestu na stranici, s desne strane, nalazi se gumb nazvan overnachtingsadressen. Klikom na njega dobit ćete adrese smještaja duž staze.
Moguće je preuzeti a GPS staza nedavne verzije Marskramerpada. Ovo je privatna publikacija, a Wandelnet je ne izdaje niti provjerava. Vjerojatno ne obuhvaća ni sve promjene u usmjeravanju. Iz razloga autorskih prava ovdje se ne može dati niti GPS trag, niti precizan opis rute, ali veze u sljedećim odlomcima nude mogućnost pronalaska više informacija o gradovima duž staze.
Nizozemski dio E11 prelazi iz 1 Scheveningen kroz središte grada 2 Haag, zatim skreće prema sjeveroistoku da prolazi pored nekadašnje palače Kraljevskog dvorca 3 Huis ten Bosch, nastavlja na imanja u 4 Wassenaar, prolazi ljetnikovac Kralj Willem-Alexander, napušta šumovito zemljište da bi išao između nekih pašnjaka, ulazi u veliko selo 5 Voorschoten i nastavlja do drugog po veličini starog gradskog središta Nizozemske, onog od 6 Leiden. To ide dalje 7 Leiderdorp i 8 Zoeterwoude-Rijndijk kroz autentične poldere i prošla močvarna područja 9 Hoogmade i kroz slikovite 10 Woubrugge do 11 Rijnsaterwoude, najniža točka staze na 5 metara ispod razine mora. Na to ide dalje 12 Nieuwveen i 13 Zevenhoven do 14 Noorden i grad 15 Breukelen koja ima željezničku stanicu. Nakon 16 Maartensdijk, krajolik se iz močvara pretvara u šumovite dine kroz koje prolazi grad 17 Amersfoort je postignuto. Ovdje ćete pronaći međugradske vlakove natrag do Haaga i Leidena, pa do gradova poput Osnabrücka, Hannovera i Berlina, a u slučaju da želite napustiti prugu na jedan dan, Amsterdam. Amersfoort, međutim, nudi dovoljno za dan ili dva odmora.
Nakon Amersfoorta i 18 Leusden, Marskramerpad / E11 ulazi u široku vlažnu dolinu koja se sastojala od močvara u ranom srednjem vijeku, ali je pretvorena u male poldere od prije 1000 godina nadalje. Staza prolazi 19 Achterveld, 20 Terschuur i 21 Appel u regiji tzv Gelderse Vallei. Sada smo u općini Nijkerk, gdje su prvi doseljenici iz New York City došao iz (Kiliaen van Rensselaer bio je trgovac iz Amsterdama, ali njegova je obitelj posjedovala još uvijek postojeću seosku kuću "Rensselaer" između Nijkerka i Puttena, a lokalno je stanovništvo bilo toliko naklonjeno da je mnoge njihove sinove odveo na današnji Manhattan) .
Ovo je područje ujedno i vrata u šume i šume Veluwe, najveće područje prekriveno drvećem u Nizozemska. Šarmantna sela poput 22 Stroe i 23 Kootwijk, bivši antenski toranj Radio Kootwijk i općina 24 Hoenderloo i 25 Beekbergen su ljudska orijentira u moru drveća. Ali tada krajolik opet postaje otvoren i mokar 26 Klarenbeek (željeznička stanica) i 27 Voorst donose se. Staza neko vrijeme prati rijeku IJssel, prolazi ispod dva velika mosta s autocestama, a zatim trajektom vozi do starog grada 28 Deventer (pod određenim okolnostima, poput poplave ili leda na rijeci, trajekt neće ići i morat ćete prijeći IJssel drugim mostom).
Deventer je prvo naselje u regiji Salland i provinciji Overijssel. Osim mogućnosti vožnje istim međugradskim vlakovima kao u Amersfoortu (vidi gore), Deventer je možda još jedan grad u kojem ćete predahnuti, prije nego što krenete na istok Nizozemske. Planinari koji prođu kroz Deventer prije nego što uđu u Njemačku, mogu profitirati od posjeta Wandelwinkel, knjižara specijalizirana za publikacije o planinarenju i srodnim sportovima na otvorenom, gdje su na raspolaganju sve njemačke detaljne karte. Trgovina je nasuprot Bergkerka (planinska crkva; sagrađena je na maloj uzvisini) u najslikovitijem dijelu grada.
29 Diepenveen, 30 Lettele, 31 Okkenbroek i 32 Espelo su mala sela okružena otvorenom agrarnom zemljom, ali Marskramerpad / E11 se zatim penje na niz brežuljaka u blizini grada 33 Holten (željeznička stanica). Sada ulazimo u regiju Twente. Uskoro se dolazi do daljnje široke doline s otvorenim poljima i staza vijuga prema zanimljivom gradiću Delden. Umjesto da pređe grad, staza preferira ljepotu posjeda 34 Twickel, zatim obuzda sjever do 35 Azelo i 36 Zenderen, dodiruje najnovija stambena područja grada 37 Borne i Hengelo, i prolazi 38 Deurningen na putu prema šarmantnom 39 Oldenzaal.
Željeznička stanica Oldenzaal raskrižje je dugih pješačkih staza, poput Naoberpad ili Noaberpad na nizozemskoj i njemačkoj granici te raznim nizozemskim stazama. E11 nastavlja jugoistočno, izbjegavajući različita naselja na tom području, i konačno prelazi 40 Njemačka granica neposredno prije sela Gildehaus, dijela Bad Bentheim. Imajte na umu da se oznake mijenjaju čim uđete u njemačko tlo: bijelo-crvene oznake sada predstavljaju mjesto za bijeli T na crnoj pozadini. Posljednjih 13 kilometara Marskramerpada su njemački.
EUREGIO eksploatira istočni dio Marskramerpada i njegov nastavak u Njemačkoj (zajedno tvoreći potez Deventer - Bad Bentheim - Osnabrück) pod imenom Handelsweg. Njegova dvojezična (nizozemska, njemačka) internetska stranica nudi preuzimanja topomapa i rezervacija smještaja i prijevoza prtljage.Ovaj dio E11 dugačak je 229 km. Ime se ponovno odnosi na prošlu trgovinu starih doba, ali u prijevodu znači "Trgovački put".
E11 u Njemačkoj (996 km)
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Prvih 13 km u Njemačkoj, kroz 1 Gildehaus i 2 Bad Bentheim, još uvijek su dio nizozemskog Marskramerpada i mogu se naći na kartama 1 i 2 nizozemskog vodiča. Oznake potječu iz vremena kada je ovaj dio bio dio Töddenwega: bijela velika slova T na crnoj pozadini. Bad Bentheim je također prvo izvanredno uzvišenje, za razliku od ravničarskih i močvarnih područja i povremenih dina Nizozemske. Bad Bentheim ima zanimljiv dvorac i muzej te šarmantno malo gradsko središte s lječilište u šumi u blizini.
U ostatku Njemačke, E11 slijedi neke stare regionalne staze, posebno Töddenweg, Wittekindsweg (Widukindov put) i dio Wesergebirgswega. Ostatak Wanderweg Harz - Niederlande (planinarska staza Harz - Nizozemska) i novostvorena ruta u bivšem DDR-u čine ostatak E11 u Njemačkoj. Put prelazi bivšu zapadnu Njemačku na lancu grebena koji se protežu od zapada prema istoku, zatim prolazi planinu Harz ne prelazeći visoko i na kraju daje dojam o velikim agrarnim poduzećima koja je osnovalo brandenburško-prusko plemstvo u 17. stoljeća i nastavila postojati u obliku trgovačkih društava tijekom NDR-a.
E11 je obično označen na razne regionalne načine i rijetko se podsjeti da se ide europskim tragom. Stoga je apsolutno neophodno znati nazive ovih staza i njihove simbole, kako je navedeno u nastavku. Budući da se pojavljuju i kao tragovi na drveću i zidovima, kao i na detaljnim kartama na kojima su naznačene staze, nije potrebno daljnje znanje njemačkog jezika da bi se stiglo do poljske granice. Te se karte obično nalaze samo u lokalnim knjižarama, ali specijalizirane mogu imati karte iz drugih područja na zalihi. Falk i ADAC objavljuju cestovne atlase u mjerilu 1: 200 000 na kojima je E11 izuzetno dobro naznačen. Atlasovi se prodaju u cijeloj Europi.
Töddenweg i Wittekindsweg (205 km)
E11 prati granicu između njemačkih saveznih država (Länder) od Donja Saska i Sjeverna-Vestfalija preko 200 km, što znači da se barem svaki dan prelazi njihova granica. To vrijedi i za Töddenweg i za Wittekindsweg, koji tvore odgovarajuće nastavke Marskramerpada.
Töddenweg (regionalni naziv koji će se prevesti kao Peddlers Way) nekada je počinjao u Oldenzaalu u Nizozemskoj, ali svoj početak započinje u Bad Bentheim, staro sjedište njemačkog plemstva sa srednjovjekovnim dvorcem (djelomično muzejom) i funkcionalnim toplicama. Prolazi Töddenweg 3 Schüttorf, 4 Rajna, 5 Dreierwalde, 6 Ostenwalde, 7 Hopsten, 8 Recke, 9 Mettingen i 10 Westerkappeln završiti na središnjem kolodvoru u 11 Osnabrück. Skup od 3 karte možete preuzeti ili naručiti iz EUREGIO-a. Na web mjestu se može dobiti drugačija karta Spazieren.de (kliknite na "T - Töddenweg (Preuzimanje, GIF-Datei, arhiv / ZIP, 167 KB)) U svom današnjem obliku, od Bad Bentheima do Osnabrücka, Töddenweg ima 110 km. Obilježen je naljepnicama s bijelim velikim slovom T na crni kvadrat ili jednostavnim T. naslikanim na drveću i zidovima. Može se preuzeti GPS trag ovdje. Krstari blago povišenim iznad okolnog agrarnog zemljišta.
Nazvan je nastavak nakon monumentalne željezničke stanice Osnabrück Widukindov put (Wittekindsweg), nazvan po ratnom vođi iz 8. stoljeća koji se odupirao osvajanju Saske od Karla Velikog, a kasnije je postao prvi vojvoda od Saske pod Karlom Velikim. Wittekindsweg, dug 95 km, slijedi greben Wiehengebirge, pretjecanje 12 Rulle, Mühlenortnear Engter, 13 Vehrte, 14 Ostercappeln, 15 Wehrendorf, 16 Barkhausen, 17 Oberbauerschaft i 18 Bergkirchen do 19 Porta Westfalica. Neposredno prije senzacionalnog silaska do Porte Westfalice, staza prolazi pored divovskog spomenika u čast Wilhelma I, njemačkog cara od 1871. do njegove smrti 1888. Zgrada je postavljena tako da su i danas svi koji prolaze vlakom ili na autocesti, pogledajte je visoko na padini koja završava Wiehengebirge.
Wittekindsweg označen je iskrivljenim bijelim križem na crnoj podlozi (ili na drveću i zidovima) od Osnabrücka do Mühlenorta, ali nakon toga bijelim i crvenim prugama koje podsjećaju na Francusku i zemlje BeNeLux. Potez od Osnabrücka do Wittekindsberga, južno od grada Minden, nalazi se i na Karta Kompassa 750 (dostupno u bilo kojoj dobroj knjižari u cijeloj Europi). I Töddenweg i Wittekindsweg su pod upravom Wiehengebirgsverband Weser-Ems, quanga koji promovira turizam i druge komercijalne interese regije. Objavljuju i prodaju detaljne karte s prikazom staze, koje se mogu naručiti kod njih web stranica. Za one koji čitaju njemački jezik može biti korisna njihova knjižica s detaljnim opisom plana puta. Može se preuzeti druga karta staze Spazieren.de i kliknite na "Wittekindsweg (Preuzmi, GIF-Datei, arhiv / ZIP, 209 KB)). Neke detaljne podatke o stazi daje njemački Wanderbares-Deutschland.de (kliknite Wittekindsweg na popisu staza u lijevom stupcu stranice). GPS trag se može preuzeti s Wanderkompass.
Istočna donja Saska i planine Harz (186 km)
Nakon Porta Westfalica E11 ostaje u Donjoj Saskoj gotovo 200 km. Slijedi 50 km regionalne pješačke staze, Wesergebirgsweg, krstareći preko grebena sljedećeg grebena, Gorje Weser do srednjovjekovnog grada Hameln. E11 doseže visinu od 440 metara dalje 20 Planina Hohe Egge, usred stijena koje oduzimaju dah i drevnih šuma. Zatim prelazi otvorene padove uokolo 21 Hameln (čvorišta s E1) i 22 Coppenbrügge, u blizini rijeka Hamel i Weser. Potonje naselje nudi posljednju mogućnost kupovine prije nego što se E11 popne na sljedeći greben, Ith i ostaje na svom grebenu cijelom dužinom.
Pretjecanje 23 Eschershausen, srednjovjekovni 24 Alfeld, Helleberg ("Mount Hell") i 25 Bad Gandersheim, E11 dolazi do Planine Harz u općini 26 Seesen. Iako planinski lanac nudi vrhove od 1000 i više metara (poznati Brocken je preko 1100 m), E11 se ne penje više od 500 m i zadržava uglavnom na nižim dijelovima sjevernih padina. Prolazi kroz nekoliko općina poznatih iz rane njemačke povijesti: 27 Goslar (čvorišta s E6) i 28 Bad Harzburg. Riječica Ecker nekada je bila 29 Njemačko-njemačka granica i sada razdvaja savezne države Donja Saska i Saska-Anhalt.
Detaljne informacije o ovom dijelu staze mogu se naći u publikaciji na njemačkom jeziku, E11Mittel - Der E11 durch das Norddeutsche Mittelgebirge (2010.); Fernwege.de; ISBN 9783937304809 (ovaj vodič opisuje E11 od Porta Westfalice do grada Halle an der Saale u Saskoj-Anhalt), na njemačkoj web stranici FernwegeE11 i na nekoliko detaljnih topografskih karata poput Kompass 450. E11 je na drveću i zidovima označen bijelim iskrivljenim križem (X), povremeno na crnom kvadratu i / ili slovom N kako bi se izbjegla zabuna s drugim stazama. N se odnosi na stari naziv staze, Nizozemska - planine Harz. Međutim, imajte na umu da se oznake "X11", također s bijelim križem, odnose na drugu stazu koja ide paralelno s E11.
Planine Harz i Saska-Anhalt (244 km)
U godinama nakon ponovnog ujedinjenja Njemačke, klub Harz uložio je mnogo napora u obnavljanje mreže nesretnih staza u istočnom dijelu planina Harz. To je rezultiralo potpuno novim proširenjem E11 kroz saveznu državu Saska-Anhalt. Prolazi 30 Ilsenburg, 31 Wernigerode, 32 Thale, 33 Gernrode i 34 Ballenstedt, konačno se probija kroz vrh planine Harz (koja su ovdje brda, a ne planine) putem 35 Pansfelde i 36 Wippra, i doseže 37 Lutherstadt Eisleben. Potonji grad poznat je kao grad rođenja Martina Luthera, reformatora crkve, i nosi njegovo ime u službenom imenu.
Daljnje produženje, dugo planirano, ali realizirano tek 2007, vodi E11 kroz rudarstvo i poljoprivredno područje velikih razmjera do sela 38 Höhnstedt i Prirodni park Donji Saale (Naturpark Unteres Saaletal) E11 nastavlja dalje 39 Schochwitz i 40 Dölau u veliki grad Halle. Odjeljak dok Halle nije označen na isti način kao i prethodni dijelovi, tj. Bijeli križ (X), moguće na crnom kvadratu.
Izuzetan grad 41 Halle preživio Drugi svjetski rat gotovo neoštećen i zadržao je velik broj zgrada koje odražavaju Jugendstil, Bauhaus i druge arhitektonske stilove. Nakon Hallea, E11 se penje na usamljeno brdo 42 Petersberg i nastavlja kroz ravno, otvoreno zemljište. Krajolik odražava velike razmjere agrarnih poduzeća u DDR-u, kao i brandenburško-prusko plemstvo u 18. i 19. stoljeću. E11 prolazi 43 Görzig i 44 Quellendorf doći do grada 45 Dessau, kolijevka Bauhausa. E11 potom uranja u uzbudljivu prirodu Rezervat biosfere Srednja Laba. Prolazi 46 Vockerode, 47 Wörlitz i 48 Coswig i ulazi okolo u šumu 49 Senst. Ubrzo nakon ovog sela, E11 doseže granicu sa saveznom državom Brandenburg. Nakon Hallea, E11 je označen prema tradicionalnom sustavu u bivšoj komunističkoj Europi: tri vodoravne pruge, bijela, plava i bijela, što se također može protumačiti kao plava pruga na bijelom kvadratu.
U Saskoj-Anhaltu, E11 se nalazi na kartama koje je objavio Kompass, posebno 450 ili 452 i 453 (Planine Harz do Eislebena), 457 (Eisleben do Hallea), 458 (Halle do Dessaua) i 456 ili 747 (nakon Dessaua). Topografske karte mogu se dobiti i lokalno. Korisne informacije na njemačkom jeziku mogu se naći na web mjestu Fernwege.de klikom na "PDF Touren download", "Wander-Shop" i "Fernwanderwege in Deutschland" (dio između Halle i Coswig još uvijek nedostaje).
Brandenburg i Berlin (348 km)
E11 ulazi u Brandenburg u blizini 50 Groß-Marzehns i prelazi veliku agrarnu zemlju bez drveća do slikovitog grada 51 Belzig. Staza se nastavlja kroz goleme lovne šume, koje su u 19. stoljeću bile vlasništvo Brandenburško-pruskog plemstva i služile su kao zelena zona oko Berlin i Potsdam u 20. stoljeću. Otprilike 20 km prije Potsdama, E11 stiže do prvog od a 52 rezultat jezera zumirana od mnogih bivših odmarališta DDR-a, od kojih se neka još uvijek zadržavaju.
Južno od točke 53 Potsdam staza se susreće s E10 koji ide u smjeru Sjever-Jug. To je obilježeno velikim kamenom oko 200 m južno od Centralne željezničke stanice Potsdam. E11 treba malo vremena jer izbjegava zanimljivo povijesno središte grada i luksuzne palače bivših vojvoda od Brandenburg, koji su postali kraljevi Pruske i carevi Njemačke. E11 se provlači kroz jedno od najtoplijih mjesta na bivšoj granici Berlin, 54 Klein Glienicke. Ovo malo naselje zatvoreno vodom i podijeljeno udubljenom granicom, obje su velesile bile su prepune špijuna tijekom hladnog rata. Most Glienicke svjedočio je otvaranju i naknadnom padu željezne zavjese 1989. godine.
Putovanje kroz nekadašnji zapadni Berlin iznenađuje ogromnom površinom šume prije 55 Olimpijski stadion u Charlottenburg je postignuto. Ovaj je dio Berlina bogat povijesnim dvorcima, uključujući zimsku rezidenciju pruskih kraljeva, koji su ovdje također osnovali nekoliko muzeja. Većina poznatih berlinskih muzeja nalazi se, međutim, u Mitte (povijesno središte Berlina, a isto tako i središte Istočnog Berlina u vrijeme DDR-a. E11 ovdje ne prolazi, već slijedi stari trag Zapadnog Berlina uz rijeku Spree i 56 Kanal Landwehr, propustivši tako najzanimljivije dijelove nekadašnjeg Istočnog Berlina i današnjeg Berlina.
Općina 57 Köpenick je mjesto gdje E11 ulazi na područje bivšeg istočnog Berlina. E11 se ležerno zadržava između rijeke Spree i nekoliko rekreacijskih parkova, a zatim rijekom prelazi trajektom u veliko područje gradskih kuća i bungalova do 58 Friedrichshagen. Ovdje E11 ostavlja urbanizaciju iza sebe da bi krenuo prema sjeveru u jedan od najljepših dijelova staze, dolinu male 59 rijeka Erpe ili Neuenhagener Mühlenfließ. Okrećući istok, staza sada prolazi 60 Neuenhagen i Park prirode Märkische Schweiz do 61 Gusow u blizini grada 62 Seelow. Odavde rambler može odabrati zapadniju stazu preko brda Lebus do Jacobsdorfa ili, više prema Istoku, stazu koja nakon s. 63 Reitwein, slijedi rijeku Odru prema jugu. Obje varijante međusobno se susreću 64 Frankfurt (Oder), gdje njemački dio E11 završava na mostu preko Odre do Poljske.
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U Brandenburgu i Berlinu E11 je označen na razne načine. Bijelo-plavo-bijele pruge koje dolaze od Coswig-a u Saskoj-Anhalt nastavljaju se do Luisiuma. Bijelo-crveno-bijele oznake preuzimaju prema malom selu Wörlitz (Brandenburg; ne veće istoimeno naselje u Saskoj-Anhalt), a bijelo-plavo-bijele pruge dovode rambler do Potsdama. Ispred monumentalne Potsdamske centralne željezničke stanice (Potsdam Hauptbahnhof) sastaje se E11 E10, trčanje sjever-jug i također označeno bijelo-plavo-bijelo. Žuti X vodi lutalicu kroz nekadašnji zapadni Berlin do početka Köpenicka, odakle bijelo-žuto-bijele pruge vode kroz ovu četvrt i četvrt Friedrichshagen. Slijede bijelo-crveno-bijele pruge i dovode planinara do Neuhardenberg. dok bijelo-plavo-bijele pruge prate putovanje do Frankfurta (Oder).
Ovaj dio E11 opisan je u knjizi na njemačkom jeziku Wanderungen durch Brandenburg, Unterwegs na Europäischen Fernwanderwegen E10 i E11 (Opis E10 i E11 u saveznoj državi Brandenburg), Trescher Verlag (2003). ISBN 9783897940338. Popis od 150 adresa koje nude smještaj za noć na putu, također na njemačkom jeziku, nalazi se u specijaliziranim knjižarama Übernachtungsverzeichnis zum europäischen Fernwanderweg E11 u BrandenburguISBN 9783937304410. Neke korisne informacije nalaze se na Fernwege.de ali kao takav nedovoljan da slijedi trag. Toplo se preporučuje nositi a plan grada Berlina kad se šetalo od Potsdama do Neuenhagena. Lokalno kupljene topografske karte poslužit će za ostatak staze u Brandenburgu.
E11 u Poljskoj (1209 km)
U Poljskoj E11 nastavlja prema istoku, a zatim prema sjeveroistoku, prolazeći gradove Międzychód, Poznań, Gniezno, Trčati, Brodnica, Iława, Olsztyn i Gołdap do mjesta Ogrodniki u Sejny Županija na litvanski granica. Kako je 30% Poljske prekriveno šumom, neće biti iznenađujuće kad se utvrdi da većina E11 prelazi ogromna područja s drvećem (uglavnom zasađenim i eksploatiranim na komercijalan način) i raznim oblicima divlje prirode, poput jezera i dina . Međutim, blizu Poznanja rambler danima hoda po agrarnom i poluindustrijskom zemljištu, što su ga učinili ugodni neki drevni gradovi i zgrade.
Kako je Poljska prilično rijetko naseljena, tim više kad se ide na istok, lutalice bez šatora moraju biti pripremljene za dnevne udaljenosti između 25 i 35 km. Tamo gdje je usmjeravanje detaljno prikazano u nastavku, udaljenost od početka odjeljka dodaje se nazivu naselja kako bi se naznačilo da grad nudi neki oblik smještaja. Na primjer, "Wronki (88 km)" u odjeljku "Międzyrzecz - Poznań-Kiekrz" znači da u gradu Wronki, 88 km nakon Międzyrzecza, postoji hostel, hotel ili drugi smještaj.
Nijedna poljska regionalna staza u cjelini nije dio E11. Staza radije skače s jedne postojeće staze na drugu, uglavnom nakon što slijedi takvu stazu samo na kratkoj udaljenosti. Štoviše, E11 nije naveden na terenu kao takav, uz nekoliko iznimaka koji mogu dodati jedan znak na svakih 100 km. Regionalne staze su, međutim, označene, iako ne uvijek dovoljno dobro da rambleru omoguće pronalazak E11 bez karte. Sustav označavanja uvijek je uobičajeni srednjoeuropski, tj. Bijelo-bijelo-bijeli, ali zbog mnogih promjena s jedne staze na drugu, boja se dosta razlikuje. Zbog toga je u detaljima usmjeravanja svakog odjeljka u nastavku navedena boja oznaka. Na primjer, "Drzecin (žuti)" znači da u Drzecinu E11 počinje slijediti trag označen žutim prugama na bijelom kvadratu.
Neke topografske karte prikazuju dijelove E11, ali druge mogu prikazivati samo staze koje su osnova za to. Stoga se potrebno osvrnuti na dokumente koji opisuju koji dijelovi kojih staza zajedno čine E11. Nažalost, ovi su teško dostupni ili nepotpuni:
1. Njemačka knjiga koja sažima put svih jedanaest europskih dalekih staza. Klisure Hans Jürgena: Auf Tour u Europi, ur. Kompass & European Ramblers Association (1999/2000 i 2002). This is an (even second-hand) completely sold-out summary of the E-trails, getting obsolete due to changes in the routings.
2. A series of Polish topographical maps (with legend in English) showing hiking trails, but not always indicating which of these belong to E11. "Poltopo" Oddział Topograficny Sztabu Gen. WP: Mapa Topograficzna Polski §, where § stands for the number of the map, i.e. "N-33-125/126" for the first map after Frankfurt (Oder). These and some more detailed maps may be ordered from abroad at the specialized map shop Grupa.18[ranije mrtva veza] in Poznań.
3. Later changes in the Polish routing can be found (in Polish) in the offices of PTTK, the Polish tourist organization. and (in English) at the secretariat of the European Ramblers Association in Prague.
4. You can't find your way with the help of German maps, however detailed they are. These maps tend to show the German names of townships as they were in use until 1945, but these names are nowhere to be found in the area. The German inhabitants of old were forcibly resettled in Germany and are no longer there, whereas the present Polish inhabitants are mostly the children of those who were equally forcefully resettled from areas that once belonged to Poland, but are now parts of Bjelorusija i Ukrajina, some thousand kilometers to the east. Thus none of the locals is able to trace an old German name to a modern Polish settlement.
Oder bridge - Międzyrzecz (141 km)
Once the bridge across the River Oder (and the now open border between Germany and Poland) has been passed, E11 (here unmarked) goes straight through the town center of 1 Słubice, until 1945 a suburban part of Frankfurt (Oder) under the name of Dammvorstadt, but a separate township in a different country since then. Going straight all the time for two kilometers, the rambler reaches a small parcel of forest. Here E11 curbs left toward the little village of Drzecin, where the first white-yellow-white markings are found. These lead in a few days to Lubniewice, where the markings change to white-blue-white. Up to here, map N-33-125/126 suffices, although it does not mention E11. Map N-33-127/128 has a new edition that shows the precise course of E11 from Trzebów. The detailed routing is: Oder bridge between Frankfurt (Oder) and Słubice - town center of Słubice (no marking) - 2 Drzecin (yellow) - 3 Stare Biskupice - 4 Sułów - 5 Drzeńsko - 6 Lubiechnia Wielka - 7 Lubiechnia Mała - 8 Ośno Lubuskie (34 km) - 9 Trzebów - 10 Jarnatów - 11 Lubniewice (67 km).
The blue trail passes Kursko i vodi do Kęszyca Leśna, a former army base of the sovjetskicrvena vojska that now tries to build up a second life as an industrial and tourist settlement. The former staff quarters now function as a hotel, where the hiker may rest as a Soviet general. A little further lies Kęszyca, where a German system of underground corridors and strongholds can be visited. This dates back to the 1920s, when democratic Germany (the Weimar Republic) felt the need to defend itself against a possible attack from the east. In the 1930s already, this defense system started to deteriorate as dictator Adolf Hitler was more interested in attacking himself to the east and saw no need for a defense system that, from his point of view, lay somewhere inland in his dreamed Greater Germany. The spot offers now the unique possibility of following E11 underground.
(blue) - 12 Osiecko - 13 Bledzew (78 km) - 14 Chycina - 15 Gorzyca - 16 Kursko (93 km) - 17 Kęszyca Leśna (100 km) - 18 Kęszyca - 19 Rez. Nietoperek - between Kaława and Wysoka - 20 Gościkowo, with Paradyż abbey (112 km) (green) - 21 Szumiąca - 22 Bobowicko (141 km). The blue trail carries E11 until the township of Gościkowo, where the Paradyż Abbey sometimes hosts tired ramblers overnight, provided they accept the sober rules of monk life. After Gościkowo, white-green-white marks lead through some 30 km of forest to Bobowicko.
Između Kursko and Bobowicko, E11 follows a large bow around the city of Międzyrzecz. The city has bus and train connections with various townships on E11 and may be used as a pleasant station for two or three days of walking without much luggage. Bodowice is at walking distance (2 km) from the train and bus stations of Międzyrzecz. Due to its train connections to Poznań and Germany, Międzyrzecz is also a good place to end or start a tour of one or more weeks along E11. The city has an interesting regional museum and a lively score of restaurants and bars.
Międzyrzecz - Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km)
From Bobowicko, the green trail continues till after Stołuń, where E11 begins to follow white-blue-white to Villa Toscana, a lonely hotel between the villages of Nowe Gorzycko and Stare Gorzycko. The blue trail and E11 continue to the twin cities of Międzychód i Bielsko, which offer many opportunities for shopping (fashion, antiquities, arts) and staying overnight. E11 now enters the area that, for a long time, was No Man's Land and War Front Zone between Prussia (later the German Empire) and Poland. Many monuments remind of this tragedy, but the explanatory texts are in Polish only. In Bukowar the markings change to white-red-white and in Obrzycko to white-green-white. Słopanowo marks the end of the forests; E11 now enters the agrarian open space of the province of Greater Poland around the city of Poznań. There are no marks after Szamotuły. The village of Kiekrz is where E11 reaches Poznań.
Maps N-33-127/128, N-33-129/130 and N-33-117/118 do not mention E11, but show the underlined trails in the right color until Szamotuły. The precise routing of E11 is: Bobowicko (green) - 23 Żółwin - 24 Kuligowo - 25 Stołuń - 1 km before Rybakówko (blue) - Villa Toscania (27 km) - 26 Stare Gorzycko - 27 Słodewy Młyn - 28 Międzychód (33 km) - 29 Bielsko (36 km) - 30 Ławicá - 31 Góra - 32 Sieraków (53 km) - 33 Piaski - 34 Bucharzewo - 35 Bukowar (red) - 36 Pustelnia - 37 Chojno - 38 Chojno Błota - 39 Mokrz - 40 Wronki (88 km) - 41 Obrzycko (99 km) (green) - 42 Słopanowo - 43 Kobylniki - 44 Twardowo - 45 Szczuczyn - 46 Szamotuły (113 km) (no marking) - 47 Kępa - 48 Baborówko - 49 Pamiątkowo - 50 Krzyszkowo - 51 Rokietnica - 52 Starzyny - 53 Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km).
E11 through Poznań (33 km)
From behind the railway station of Kiekrz, a white-green-white marked trail leads through a vast city park to 54 Golęcin, from where a few black or blue marks guide the rambler to the tramway stop of 55 Sołacz i 56 Nad Wierzbakiem. After this point, E11 is not defined, but the obvious choice of a rambler interested in one of the oldest, biggest and most beautiful town centers along E11 is to turn right (south) toward 57 Rynek Jezycki. Here begins The Royal-Imperial Route in Poznań which, in a more or less straight West-East line, passes all touristic highlights of Poznań, among others the 58 central square of Poznań, Rynek and Rondo Środka. This tourist trail ends at the medieval little Church of St. John of Jerusalem Outside the Walls near Lake Malta. The quiet northern shore of this 59 Jezioro Maltańskie offers interesting views of the many sports accommodations on and around the lake and guides the E11 rambler to Krańcowa/60 Nowe Zoo and the start of the well-marked but curving Cistercian bicycle track (black monks on a white field or simple black stripes). Its many curves lead around the zoo, through 61 Poznań-Antoninek to the last residential area of Poznań, 62 Zieliniec. Lodgings and buses back to town are found just across the border of the city in 63 Gruszczyn (35 km). For this part of the track, a detailed plan of the city is recommendable. Free street maps of the center of Poznań and leaflets with information about the Royal-Imperial Route are found in many hotel lobbies and in the tourist information centers.
Poznań-Zieliniec - Gniezno (55 km)
Crossing the main road in Gruszczyn, E11 goes straight, now following a different bicycle trail, which is marked with a black stripe on a white square (the Cistercian route, by the way, turns left here and ends after two kilometers at the railway station of Kobylnica, although Map N-33-131/132 suggests that it continues straight to Pobiedziska.) E11 passes over a tar road through a nondescript area of small businesses and workshops related to agriculture until, just before the little village of Pomo (not shown on map N-33-131/132), it turns left and immediately right again into a sandy forest road. This spot is marked by a stone pillar indicating various hiking and biking trails.
Having ventured into the forest for 2 or 3 kilometers, you reach a crossing of sandy roads where a hiking trail marked white-green-white comes from the left. E11 and the black bicycle trail turn right to follow the green trail over several kilometers and across a paved road, until finally all black or green markings disappear. Here you should follow white-blue-white markings which, after another kilometer, turn out to mark the same trail as the green hiking and black biking routes. The scale of the topo-map, 1:100,000, does not allow to display all these details, so that a good sense of direction (assisted by a compass and sunny weather) is required.
The combined blue, green and black routes reach a second tar road, which they follow to the left (north) over a few hundred meters. The green and black signs are nowhere to be seen, but the blue trail turns right into a sandy forest path and the map indicates that this is E11. After about a kilometer, the markings leave the path and invite the rambler to find his steps among the trees. The blue stripes are now corroborated by green stripes (both on a white square) and are convincingly frequent, so that it is quite frustrating to learn that both routes, after splitting up, die somewhere in the forest and the dunes. Romantic ramblers may be reminded of Hansel and Gretel and start searching for the edible house of the bad witch, but in earnest, there seems to be no other solution than to go back to the tar road and follow it to the right (north) to the township of Pobiedziska, where E11 is found back.
The stretch between Pobiedziska and Gniezno is poorly documented. The only known source is a big map of the area, placed on the central square near the main church of Trzemeszno, a township further down E11. In Pobiedziska, a clearly marked trail guides hikers and bikers to the local railway station, but E11 and two bicycle trails follow, unmarked, a different street. This is the ulica Gnieźnieńska at the left of the church on the central square of Pobiedziska. After a kilometer the road and the routes cross the railway. In Glówna, bicycle trail #12 turns left, but E11 proceeds along an unnumbered bicycle trail, also marked black, to the village of Węglewo. E11 and the unnumbered bicycle route make two right turns in Węglewo and a left turn just outside, to continue on a stony dirt road.
Five hundred meters before the dangerously busy main road #5 is reached (don't put your hopes on signs indicating that meals or drinks might be served), in the long-stretched village of Moraczewo, E11 and the bicycle route curve left toward Lednogóra where white-red-white markings join the trail. This is from now on the colour of E11 over more than 100 km. From the church in the little village with scattered houses, it is about 2 km to the main road #5, which is followed to the left over a newly paved footpath along a swampy lake. After another kilometer on this path, a crossing in the main road is reached. A huge red neon sign draws attention to a motel ahead on the main road; a humble signpost points to the youth hostel of Dziekanowice to the left; but E11 turns right to cross the main road and follow a tar road to the South. At the crossing a road sign says that it is now 22.2 km to Gniezno.
The tar road and E11 reach the railway track and follow it to the left, but where the tar road crosses the rails, E11 goes straight on a stony dirt road parallel to the railway. There are no markings here; the first white-red-white stripes are found just before the station of Fałkowo, where E11 turns right across the tracks into the township. Fałkowo is crossed at full length until you reach a motorway (in September 2011, the road was still under construction and a new routing of E11 had not been established. Please add new information here.) After Leśniewo scarce white-red-white signs can be found again, leading the aware and persistent rambler to Gniezno.
Gniezno was the first capital of Poland, way back in the Middle Ages, but it is now dreaming away as a provincial town. Old and beautiful houses and other buildings around the central square testify of an interesting past, whilst decaying factories refer to the recent communist past. The university offers the most lively corner of the town. The white-red-white marks of E11 lead along the most interesting churches, museums and other sites, and finally to the railway station.
The routing of E11 in this section can be summarized as: Poznań-Zieliniec (bicycle track marked with a black Cistercian on a white square) - Gruszczyn (1 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 64 Uzarzewo - 65 Biskupice - Rez. Jezinowo Dębiniec (green) - Rez. Drazynek (blue) - forest near Kapalice (no markings) - 66 Pobiedziska (22 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 67 Glówna - 68 Węglewo - 69 Moraczewo - 70 Lednogóra (red) - 71 crossing near Dziekanowice (33 km) - 72 Fałkowo - 73 Leśniewo - 74 Pierzyska - 75 Wożniki - 76 Gniezno (55 km).
Gniezno - Toruń (136 km)
A few signs in front of the railway station of Gniezno indicate distances along the red-marked trail that is E11. The 40 km to Mogilno are correct, but the distance to Kruszwica is severely exaggerated. The trail follows the road parallel to the tracks to the Northeast and turns then right into a tunnel under the railway. After another right turn, it passes through a modern industrial area, older residential quarters and a surprisingly wild patch of forest. The red markings lead through open agrarian land to the long-stretched industrial village of Trzemeszno. The trail passes in front of the railway station, crosses the tracks a little further, and reaches Mogilno via the village of Wydartowo.
The maps needed for this section are N-33-131/132, N-34-121/122, N-34-109/110 and N-34-97/98. E11 is not mentioned on these maps, but the red marked trails are partially covered, namely from Gniezno to Trzemeszno. From Trzemeszno to Strzelno, the E11 is shown on a locally published topographical map Mogilno na Szlaku Piastowskim, ur. Artem, Witkowo, 1:50 000, ISBN 8391396967 . The precise course of E11 in this section is: Gniezno (red) -Pławnik - 77 Kędzierzyn - 78 Nowa Wieś Niechanowska - 79 Krzyżówka - 80 Miaty - 81 Trzemeszno (23 km) - 82 Niewolno - 83 Folusz - 84 Wydartowo - 85 Duszno - 86 Izdby - 87 Gozdawa - 88 Wyrobki - 89 Mogilno (41 km)
The white-red-white stripes die out in Mogilno. E11, now invisible, turns right in the little park around the lake, not far from the railway station, and immediately right again, to follow the waterside toward the medieval Benedictine monastery. E11 turns left (east) along a busy narrow road to Bystrzyca, where it turns into a backstreet to Olsza. The lengthy village street of Podgaj and Kawka delivers the rambler at the lonely motel of Goryszewo Kwieciszewo. The exact routing in this part of the trail is: Mogilno - 90 Bystrzyca - 91 Olsza - 92 Goruszewo - 93 Kwieciszewo (51 km).
Here, the first white-red-white stripes since Mogilno are found. These fail to mark where E11 leaves the main road and hops to a dirt road running parallel to the main road, a few hundred meters to the South. The dirt road is scarcely marked until the entrance of a forest; then the marking activities have stopped completely. Ramblers who go straight through the wood, find red markings at the other side. E11 passes through Jeziorki and follows a sandy dirt road to Strzelno (the hotel indicated on maps in this town has shut its doors many years ago). After Strzelno, a Polish Way of St. James follows more or less the same route as the E11, so that the yellow and blue shells yield an alternative marking. E11 and the Way of St. James pass the attractive baroque church of Strzelno and the nearby village of Starczewo and, via Ksiaż, reach Polanowice. In this soviet-industrial village two rusty signs with white-red-white stripes are found, which still clearly indicate E11 (200 km after the previous E11 sign!) A rustic tree lane brings the rambler to Kruszwica, a provincial town with some interesting churches. The details of E11's course in this paragraph are: Kwieciszewo - 94 Jeziorki - 95 Strzelno (both red and Way of St. James) - 96 Starczewo - 97 Ksiaż - 98 Polanowice - 99 Lagiewniki - 1 Kruszwica (72 km).
Kruszwica shows no clue where E11 and the Way of St. James continue. Gorges invites to look for a trail marked blue, but the only blue trail to be found makes a short circuit through a suburb of Kruszwica. A better bet is to follow the busy main road to the North, which is marked with the shells of St.James. After 7 km, near Łojewo, one may take a quiet asphalt road to the skewed left, soon unpaved and marked blue. The blue signs lead finally through long-stretched suburbs to the city center of Inowrocław. The part of E11 in this paragraph runs: Kruszwica (Way of St. James shells) - 2 Szarlej - 3 Łojewo (blue) - 4 Szymborze - 5 Inowrocław (87 km).
Near the railway station of Inowrocław, a torn map of the city is found, which indicates where the red-marked E11 leaves the town. At a few points in town one still finds the white-red-white stripes. No markings whatsoever have survived in the villages up to Kolonie Szadłowice, but one may follow a green-marked bicycle trail. Somewhere among its scattered farmhouses, E11 turns right into a skewed dirt road that enters a forest, passes a military site (not on the map), curves to the North and turns right after about one kilometer into a sandy road that curves to the Northeast. All the time passing through the forests of Błoto Ostrowskie, E11 follows this sandy road without curves over almost three kilometers, until it reaches a T-junction and a wooded bank. The main road turns sharp right; a minor path goes left; E11 however breaks through the wooded bank into a large piece of grassland. If one enters the field and keeps to the left, one finds the next white-red-white stripes on a lonely tree in the grassland. It is an arrow this time, pointing back to Inowrocław, but if one follows the signs in the opposite direction, one comes to the village of Wierzbiczany. After a right turn outside this village, both the red markings and the blue shells of St.James lead through agrarian land to Gniewkowo. From the railway station of Inowrocław, E11 runs (red) - 6 Jacewo - 7 Balin - 8 Slońsko - 9 Pieklo - Kolonie Szadłowice - 10 Błoto Ostrowskie - 11 Wierzbiczany - 12 Gniewkowo (106 km).
At the railway crossing at the entrance of Gniewkowo, the red signs turn left to the railway station, but E11, now marked blue, and the Way of St. James go straight into the center of the township. They follow a right curve and leave the town on the asphalt road towards Cierpice to the North. In spite of Gorges E11 no longer passes through Suchatówka. The trails now enter a large forest, leave the tar road after some kilometers and make a wide curve of 16 km to the village of Cierpice, the first of a chain of suburbs of Toruń. The blue signs bring the E11 rambler without problems from Cierpice to and through Mała Nieszawka, but after this village, shortly before the railway station, the trail turns left without notice, into a road plastered with concrete. The trail climbs over a dyke and reaches the river Vistula (Wisla). Here it turns right into an unpaved track, to pass a few ruins and reaches the bridge to Trčati. The blue trail ends at the PTTK office in the town centre, after running Gniewkowo (blue) - 13 Cierpice (122 km) - 14 Mała Nieszawka (130 km) - 15 Trčati (136 km).
Toruń - Brodnica (87 km)
From the PTTK office in Trčati, E11 is identical to a trail marked white-yellow-white, which leads all the way to Samborowo, 200 km to the northeast. The maps N-34-97/98, N-34-109/110 and N-34-99/100 do not mention E11, but the yellow trail that is used by E11, is shown in violet between Toruń and Golub-Dobrzyń, as well as from Pólka Duża to Brodnica.
E11 and St. James Way avoid the historical town center of Toruń and pass between city walls and river Vistula (Wisla), but it is far more interesting to cross the city center from the PTTK office by Różana, Szeroka and Wielkie Garbary to the railway station of Toruń-Miasto.
Out of town, the trails follow a main road till Fort Sobieskiego, then turns right into the forest near the river Vistula, but is forced to enter a (badly marked) suburban residential area after only two km. It is only after Kaszczorek and Złotoria that the trails pass through forest for a couple of hours. After crossing the busy motorway A10 near Brzozówka Kuyavian, you may turn right to reach a motel at 1 km. The details of this stretch are: Toruń (yellow) - 16 Kaszczobek - 17 Złotoria - 18 Brzozówka (20 km).
Back at the crossing of Motorway A10 near Brzozówka, E11 turns left into an overgrown footpath and later reaches Mierzynek over a sandy road. Map N34-97/98 shows an older routing by Szembekowo. Iz 19 Lelitowo do 20 Ciechocin (32 km) and again to Golub-Dobrzyń, E11 continues through a variety of natural and commercial forests along the river Drwęca, passing 21 Dulnik and Antoniewo to 22 Golub-Dobrzyń (44 km).
Map N-34-99/100 displays an erroneous course for the yellow trail until Pólka Duża (this village is not mentioned in the map). Actually, E11 leaves the twin cities without markings near the Post Office and the cemetery on National Road # 534 to Rypin. The trail turns left, to follow the river Drwęca to the North-East, and the first yellow signs are found in the forest. The trail then alternates between river side woods and agrarian settlements. Some of these remind of the composer Chopin who lived in this area and now has a museum in Szafarnia.
In Radziki Duże E11 turns left over a paved road with heavy lorries carrying loads from a sand quarry. It takes about an hour to reach a bridge over the Drwęca and escape from the road into the forest on the other side of the river. This sandy forest road continues till Mszano, but in a new suburb under Szabda it turns into a paved road and subsequently a boring main road leading to Brodnica, entering the city near the only hotel. The details of the course are: 23 Białkowo - 24 Szafarnia (53 km) - 25 Płonne - 26 Rodzone - 27 Tomkowo - 28 Kierz Radzikowski - 29 Radziki Duże - 30 Kupno - 31 Pólka Duża - 32 Słoszewy - 33 Mszano - 34 Szabda - 35 Brodnica (87 km).
Brodnica - Olsztyn (237 km)
Maps N-34-99/100, N-34-87/88, N-34-89/90 and N-34-77/78 do not mention E11, but show the underlying regional trails in the correct color (yellow being replaced by violet), with one exception: no trail is shown between Marianowo and Ostrowite.
E11 and St. James Way leave Brodnica well-marked, but avoiding the nice but neglected old city centre. The trails follow Motorway A15 and an abandoned railway track into forest, and meet the A15 again near the bridges of Tama Brodzka. Right after the bridge, the trails turn left into a small paved forest lane leading to Bachotek, where they split. The St. James Way offers a 24 km shorter option by Nowe Miasto Lubawskie do Radomno. E11 makes a few curves through the nature conservation area of Zbiczno lake and meets a trail marked green. Here the yellow signs are missing, but the green signs must be followed to the North until a paved road. The asphalt is followed to the East over about one kilometer between two lakes. Here the green trail and the yellow-marked E11 split up. (The green trail offers another short alternative for E11. It enters some of the most gratifying and adventurous pieces of wild nature in the area, reducing the distance by about 20 km.) E11 makes an almost full circle through rather dull woods and open land, passing twice near the tourist resort of Ciche and turning West to Górale, then North to the railway station of Ostrowite, and finally East.
The correct routing along the trails in various colors is: Brodnica (yellow) - Tama Brodzka (7 km) - 36 Bachotek (13 km) - Zbiczno lake - 37 Leśniczówka Rytebłota (23 km) (lodgings may be found near Ciche at 2 km) - 38 Górale - 39 Wonka (39 km) - 40 Ostrowite - 41 railway station of Ostrowite - 42 Łakorek (50 km, lodgings may be found again in Ciche, by following the paved road to the South over 4 km).
From Ciche one need not turn back to Łakorek by the paved road; the green-marked trail mentioned before offers a sensational alternative (pick it up in the forest East of Ciche). From the crossing of the green trail with E11, the now yellow-marked E11 continues to the East; through wood it goes to Sluzka, then through open agrarian land to the remarkable church ofGryżliny}}. A new routing carries E11 to Radomno, where it unites with the St. James Way. Both turn North at the eastern side of a string of lakes to reach Iława amidst rail tracks. In detail, E11 runs from the crossing with the green trail (yellow) - 43 Sluzka - 44 Skarlin - 45 Lekarty - 46 Gryźliny - 47 Radomno (73 km) - 48 Katarzynki - 49 Iława (85 km)
The trails pass the modern center of the city, which was heavily destroyed in the Second World War (first by the German Army, then by the Russian Red Army), and continue North through long-stretched Szalkowo, a water sports resort. E11 continues on a paved road between fields to Wiewiórka, then enters wooded land to reach the railway station of Samborowo. In detail: Iława - 50 Szałkowo (91 km) - Wiewiórka - 51 Tynwałd (99 km) - 52 Frednowy - 53 Wiewiórka - 54 Samborowo (112 km).
At the railway station of Samborowo, a blue-marked section of E11 to Waplewo, passing the historical site of Battle of Grunwald počinje. Right after the start it is difficult to find: in the village of Samborowo it turns unexpectedly right, along the main road, to take the second bridge to the left and follow an old railway track over 9 km. Where it reaches a lone roadside cafe, E11 follows a paved road to the left, then another one toward long-stretched Pietrzwałd and the forests around Wysoka Wieś. There is a cheap hostel in Pietrzwałd with no visible signpost, while various luxury places can easily be found in Wysoka Wieś. Samborowo (112 km) (blue) - 55 Turznica - 56 Gruda - 57 Naprom - 58 Pietrzwałd (129 km) - 59 Wysoka Wieś (132 km).
A variety of wild and tamed nature (forest, wood, neglected fields, wasteland and farmland) decorates the trail past Grunwald to Waplewo. This Grunwald is the most important national site of the Polish people: it commemorates a medieval battle in which the Polish defeated an army of the German Knights. The trail is sometimes difficult to follow, as markings are scarce and the path may be overgrown, so good sense for direction and a compass are required. The villages along this part of E11 are Wysoka Wieś - 60 Dylewo - 61 Marcinkowo - 62 Samin - 63 Grunwald (156 km) - 64 Ulnowo - 65 Lubianek - 66 Sitno - 67 Waplewo.
After Waplewo, the scenery changes radically: open land makes place for wood, then forest. Two natural parks protect a great number of rare species (plants, mammals, birds and insects) and justify the large detour that E11 makes to the South before turning North. After Maróz there is only one place where one can find a bed: the "agroturystyka" in Brzeżno Łyńskie of a Polish lady who speaks English, French, German and Russian. To begin the 25 km long stretch through the Las Warminski natural reserve from here is a feast, which is regrettably disturbed by the extended apartment buildings and city motorways of Olsztyn. This section of E11 passes Waplewo - 68 railway station of Waplewo (black) - 69 Maróz junction (183 km; lodgings in Maróz at 1 km) - 70 Żelazno (yellow) - 71 Łyński Młyn (green) - 72 Orłowo - 73 Likusy - 74 Brzeżno Łyńskie (203 km) - 75 Kurki - 76 Las Warminski - 77 Ruś - 78 Bartążek - 79 Jaroty (232 km) - 80 Olsztyn (237 km).
Olsztyn - Gołdap (243 km)
Karte N-34-77/78, N-34-65/66, N-34-67/68 i N-34-69/70 do not mention E11, but display the underlying regional trails in the colors with which they are marked (yellow shown as violet). Exception: the stretch from Lidzbark Warmiński do Kętrzyn is not shown in the maps. Part of this, however, is shown in blue on a detailed map of eastern Masuria that can be acquired locally: PPWK/Copernicus: Grosse Masurische Seen 1:100 000, ISBN 9788376970035 .
Olsztyn has a most interesting historical city centre that to a large extent has been restored. The museums and shops invite to a day of rest, before one sets out to follow E11 on the Copernicus Path. Its red markings lead from the PTTK office to the North of the city and under a huge railway viaduct. The trail follows the western bank of the river Lyna, but the eastern bank offers a number of attractions, including a canopy walk and a rope bridge over the river. After the Smętka bridge the city noises are no longer heard and the trail becomes a quiet footpath through river bank wood. The village of Dywity used to be on the trail, but is now passed at a distance. Wood dominates until the rural settlement of Swobodna; fields and pastures follow, while E11 and the St. James Way pass the pilgrim's hostel of Głotowo and the provincial town of Dobre Miasto. The details of the routing are: Olsztyn (red) - Os Wojska - 81 Braswald - 82 Barkweda - Strusiolandia (18 km) - 83 Cerkiewnik - 84 L. Chmury - 85 Swobodna - 86 Głotowo (32 km) - 87 Dobre Miasto (37 km).
From Dobre Miasto a narrow paved road with busy traffic leads E11 Northwest through Kunik. After this village the red markings of the Copernicus Path and E11 turn right into a one-lane paved road that gives access to the bishop's palace of Smolajny. There is no doubt that the trail swarves over the clerical grounds, then crosses another paved road and enters the open fields at the other side of the road. But when, after about 1 km, it enters a marsh, all traces of markings are vanished. No path seems to continue from here, except for an overgrown cart track that leads back to the church grounds. The only way out of this maze is to go back to the paved road and take it to the left (Northeast) through the village of Smolajny up to its ending at National Motorway #51. This must then be followed over 5 km until a large parking space and rest area is reached. Here one finds the red markings again; they lead into wood and later through a puszta type of landscape, pass the lonely and almost deserted village of Wróblik to Pilnik, a residential neighbourhood of Lidzbark Warmiński. In detail: Dobre Miasto - 88 Kunik - 89 Smolajny - 90 Wróblik - Nowosady - 91 Pilnik - crossing 92 Lidzbark Warmiński (62 km).
The red-marked Copernicus Path turns left at this point, but this is not where the E11 rambler should go. It is tempting to go straight to the vast town centre and find a bed, but the E11 turns right, leaving the town again, it seems, to follow the black markings of a local trail that joins the river Lyna and follows its meandering valley. For some obscure reason this walk avoids most of the medieval beauties of the town and passes along some apartment buildings from the communist era to the railway station. For those who stick to the precise course of E11, a second deception follows after the uninteresting railway station: A trail marked blue takes them back along the same apartment buildings to the entry of the Lyna valley, allows a view of the Knights' Castle and then leaves the town. It is therefore advisable to spend a day in Lidzbark Warmiński to visit the many remnants of medieval Christian Knighthood.
The blue trail will carry E11 over 69 km to Kętrzyn, but sets out by visiting a war cemetery from the First World War. Straight East it goes then to the monastery of Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński), where pilgrims on the St. James' Way and other ramblers may find a simple meal and a bed. The blue trail continues through open land and over the long main street of Sulowo to charming Bisztynek, another town reminiscent of the medieval German Knights. An old railway track carries E11 out of town to the East and on a sandy road more or less parallel to the old track, the extended village of Sątopy-Samulewo is reached. E11 goes straight, past a new settlement of apartment blocks and to an older settlement where it turns right. The paved road becomes a gravel road, the gravel makes place for sand, then grass, and after a while the rambler must find a thorny way by going straight and noticing the occasional blue mark. When a paved road is reached, E11 follows it to the left and finally reaches the next medieval town, Reszel which also offers an unusual rich variety of dishes. The townships passed are Lidzbark Warmiński - 93 Sarnowo - 94 Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński) (80 km) - 95 Kiwity (85 km) - 96 Rokitnik (88 km; hotel at 1 km) - 97 Sulowo - 98 Bisztynek (94 km) - 99 Nowe Wieś Reszelska - 1 Sątopy-Samulewo - 2 Troksy - 3 Biel - 4 Czarnowiec - 5 Reszel (114 km).
Reszel is also left over an old railway track, but E11 soon turns right (South) toward the popular pilgrimage church of Święta Lipka. It offers beds in a pilgrim house and accommodation in hotels for every budget, and the company of bus loads of tourists. After this busy beehive, E11 finds the silence of a detour through forest and a long walk over an old railway track through fields to the industrial village of Smokowo. A feeder road brings the rambler to a main road with heavy traffic. This highway, followed to the right (East) ends up at the beginning of the long high street of Kętrzyn. This is mainly a flourishing modern provincial town, but it lodges some memories of the medieval past. It also harbors the last railway station before the ending of E11, about 300 km further. Ramblers who want to interrupt their walk in any township after Kętrzyn, will have to study the time tables in Polish of the regional bus services, instead of using www.Bahn.com in English. The places passed on this stretch are Reszel - 6 Święta Lipka (121 km) - 7 Pieckowo - 8 Smokowo - 9 Biedaszki - 10 Kętrzyn (137 km)
Near Kętrzyn was Hitler's strongest hide-away, the so-called Wolfsschanze (Wolf's Lair). As the map shows, it was a huge military complex. House No. 6 was the location of a plot by Claus von Stauffenberg and others to kill Hitler in a late stage of World War II. Once the troops of the Red Army had conquered the place, they tried to destroy it with tons of dynamite, but large ruins can still be seen and visited.
After Kętrzyn follow 11 Kruszewiec - 12 Karolewo - 13 Czerniki - Szaniec - 14 Parcz (black) - 15 Jankowo - 16 Skrzypy (red) - 17 Pilwa - 18 Radzieje (155 km) - 19 Łabapa - 20 Sztynort (black) - 21 Sklodowo - Kolonie Harsz - 22 Harsz (169 km) - 23 Okowizna - 24 Ogonki (176 km) (blue) - 25 Pozezdrze (182 km) - 26 Sapieniec - 27 Przytuły - 28 Wilkus - 29 Jasieńczyk - 30 Jasieniec (193 km) (lodgings will be found in Jeziorowski, 2 km) (green) - 31 Żabinka - 32 L. Diabla Gora - Rogonie - 33 L. Leśny Zakątek (210 km) - 34 Czerwony Dwór - L. Olszanka - 35 Jabłonowo - 36 Golubie Wężewskie - 37 Wilkasy - 38 Kamionki - 39 Pietrasze - 40 Suczki - 41 Osiedłe - 42 Gołdap (243 km).
Gołdap - Lithuanian border (144 km)
U Gołdap, E11 offers a choice between a trail marked white-green-white that comes very close to the Russian border, or a white-red-white trail along the main road to the East. Both trails meet again after 31 km in Stanczyki. The green trail passes through uninhabited woodland and should not be recommended to ramblers with a weak sense of orientation, or those who fear Russian red tape when crossing the border unintentionally and without visa. That one reaches the Russian border before Litva, may be surprising to those who are not aware that Rusija has an exclave around Kaliningrad, formerly German Königsberg.
For this section, the rambler will need maps N-34-69/70 and N-34-71/7. Karta N-34-57 / 58 potrebna je (loše!) Samo za zelenu stazu uz rusku granicu, Gołdap (zeleno) - 43 Botkuny - 44 Jurkiszky - Hajnówek - 45 Blędziski - 46 Stanczyki (31 km). Crvena alternativa je Gołdap (crveno) - L. Kumiacie - Botkuny - Jurkiszki - Galwiecje (12 km) - Pluszkiejmy - Budwiecie - Stańczyki (31 km).
Od Stańczykija usmjeravanje je: Stańczyki (Crvena) - 47 Maciejowieta (32 km od Gołdapa) - 48 Pobłędzie - 49 Rakówek (žuto) - 50 Kłajpedka - 51 Kłajpeda - 52 Dziadówek (Crvena) - 53 Dzierwany (plava) - 54 Smolniki (50 km) (zeleno) - 55 Puopuchowon - 56 Udziejek - 57 Czajewszczyzna (58 km) - 58 Kazimierówka - 59 Jeleniewo (62 km) - 60 Krzemianka (64 km) - križanje s glavnom cestom br. 8 (= E 67) u 61 Swajcaria (crno) - 62 Stare Folwark (88 km) (zeleno) - 63 Magdalenowo - 64 Czerwony Folwark - 65 Rosochaty Rog - Węgzał (plavi) - 66 Maćkowa Ruda - 67 Wysoki Most (most) - 68 Jeziorki - 69 Karolin - 70 Wiersnie - 71 Giby (116 km) (smještaj u Sejny na 7 km) (crveno) - 72 Zelwa - 73 Beržniki - 74 Dworczysko - J.Szłabinki (136 km) (smještaj u Sejny, 5 km dalje crvenom stazom) (crna) - 75 Granična stanica Ogrodniki (144 km).
Idi dalje
E11 završava kod poljsko-litvanske granične stanice na 3 km od Ogrodnikija. Najbliži smještaj je u Sejny, 11 km glavnom cestom ili 13 km slijedeći crnu stazu natrag, a zatim crvenu stazu udesno. Oni koji se odvaže Litva možda pronaći pansion u Lazdijaj. Niti jedan grad nema željezničku vezu; da biste se vlakom vratili kući ili u zračnu luku, može se ići crvenim tragom od Sejny preko 25 km do željezničke stanice Trakiszki kod Puńska. Postoje i željezničke stanice u poljskom gradu Suwałki i litvanski grad Sestokai. Pripremite se na dugo čekanje; čini se da iz ovih mjesta postoji samo jedan vlak u oba smjera, osim Suwałkija, koji nudi tri vlaka dnevno za Białystok. Najnovije vozne redove možete provjeriti na Bahn.com.
Camino Lituano započinje kod Sejny i vodi prema sjeveru prema Latviji. Camino Lituano proširuje ideju Put_Svetog_Jamesa u Litvu i može biti dobar izvor za prelazak dalje od E11.
Via Baltica također može biti alternativa. Od Sejny-a vodi cesta (651) sjeverozapadno prema Szypliskom na autocesti 8, koja je dio ulice Via Baltica, alternativno možete prijeći na litvansku stranu, prošetati do Lazdijaija i sjeverozapadno lokalnim cestama 134 i 131 do Kalvarije i pridružiti se cesti tamo. Iako je ovaj plan uglavnom za vozače i vjerojatno niste ponijeli automobil dok ste pješačili, ipak je moguće hodati pored autocesta. Teoretski je moguć i biciklizam, iako opasniji. Otprilike 800 km i tri baltičke zemlje kasnije, zateći ćete Tallinn.